There’s been a lot of talk during this fashion month about the end of streetwear dominance and the return to a gimmick-less, more classic sense of chic on the catwalks. For the first time in years, street style shots are devoid of loud logo-ed pieces, sneakers have been swapped for timeless loafers and pumps, and collections playing on bourgeois dress codes including Burberry’s and Celine’s have made waves. But that’s the essence of elegance that Hermes has never steered away from. Throughout the years, the Parisian brand has resisted the temptation to get swept away by trends, and has stayed true to its roots (and its faithful customers), and that stance is what made saturday evening’s collection all the more relevant.
Best in show:
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski knows what Hermes clients look for: pencil skirts? Check. Perfect basic cashmere turtlenecks? Check. Raglan-sleeve double-face coats? Check. Leather jackets? Check. However, this season the designer added an extra dose of sexiness, and not just with the black leather and cream suede shorts that opened the show. Paired with knee-high boots and black leather blousons, the pencil skirts introduced a whole new female power look to the collection. Which is not to say that the designer forgot practicality: a selection of incredibly luxurious parkas and short puffa jackets – leather on the outside, goose feathers on the inside – were as wearable as they were showstoppers, and the same went for the shearling and leather aviator jackets.
As usual, accessories were the collection’s strong suit. Classic bags with an H-shaped clasp came mid-size but also in smaller proportions and worn as belts – a younger, more playful incarnation of this timeless ladylike piece. But it was the big, folded tote bags that most captured the public’s attention, especially in Hermes orange. As for the shoes, it was all about high square heels and fine suede boots that hugged the calves almost like gloves. That’s a look we’ve seen elsewhere this past week (notably at Lemaire) and one that we’re betting on this season.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans